Why the Oyster Perpetual Matters at Baselworld 2018

The Rolex Submariner. The Cosmograph Daytona. The GMT Master. These are names that inspire respect and fascination across the watch industry, and a peculiar form of what we will politely call devotion among certain collectors (impolitely: deranged obsession). In most of the breathless excitement over such watches at Baselworld this year, the words "Oyster Perpetual" have only appeared as part of technical full names - as in, "the new Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II with Pepsi bezel in steel". Just as an example off the top of my head.

But the Oyster Perpetual is also a Rolex collection in its own right, and new models unveiled at Baselworld prove it deserves attention of its own. It is, of course, the most historic watch family that Rolex still produces. When his company created the first waterproof wristwatch in 1926, brand founder Hans Wilsdorf called the new cases "Oyster" to convey their impermeability. The "Perpetual" moniker came in 1933 when Rolex was again the first to put self-winding movements into full production. This groundbreaking combination of technologies was to place Rolex firmly on the horological map, transforming the brand into the King of Watchmakers, as it remains today.

Compared to the other watch families that evolved from it, the plain Oyster Perpetual watches seem relatively simple today. They have no fancy complications or even date windows, maintaining the classic three-hands, no-frills design that has given them such staying power through the decades. The cases are exclusively steel, and none of the models are upgraded with diamonds or anything else for that matter. But make no mistake: the Oyster Perpetuals are very much Rolex watches, and there is zero compromise on quality. Their appearance and performance are both excellent - the outsides are instantly recognisable, while the movements inside are pure Rolex manufacture class. The current models all use 31xx or 22xx series calibres, which remain some of the best in the business.

So why mention it now, at Baselworld, when we could be writing about diamond-studded Daytonas or long-prophesied GMTs? It's not a huge news story, but it is one that we haven't seen covered anywhere else, and we think it's worth your attention: the Oyster Perpetual has new stick dials in both white and black. These gloriously simple new watches are exciting because of what they represent for Rolex's entry level. The Oyster Perpetual is, of course, the most accessible family that Rolex offers, with prices starting at CHF 4,600 for the 26mm pieces. That might sound like a substantial sum, but for the prestige of a brand new Rolex, it's a steal. Even the likes of the Datejust and the Air-King (also overlooked, in our opinion) cost at least 25% more.

So the new all-white and all-black dials are really excellent opportunities for those attempting to make a start on the daunting Rolex ladder. They are beautiful, without being in the least flashy, they are exceptionally versatile, and they will command respect from connoisseurs and newbies alike. And since they come in a range of sizes (26, 31, 34, 36, and 39mm), they are perfect for both men and women with any girth of wrist.