Audemars Piguet is one of the most important watch manufacturers in Switzerland. Since its founding in 1875 in Le Brassus, the brand has shaped horology with technical innovations and uncompromising craftsmanship. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak revolutionized the watch industry in 1972, setting new standards for luxury sports watches. Now, in its 150th anniversary year, it is worth taking a detailed look at the brand’s most significant timepieces and their evolution in the collector’s market.
Audemars Piguet: History, Models & Value Development in 2025
The Legend: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Legend: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak made horological history in 1972. As the first luxury sports watch in stainless steel, featuring an octagonal bezel and visible screws, it broke all conventions. The bold design by Gérald Genta made the Royal Oak an icon and established a completely new watch category. Today, Royal Oak models are highly coveted collectibles with steadily increasing value.
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar – Rare Steel-Platinum Hybrid
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 25820SP, marks an important milestone. As the second generation, it introduced the leap year indication for the first time in 1991. What makes it particularly noteworthy is its material combination: a stainless steel case topped with a fully polished platinum bezel.
Out of a total of 1,235 Perpetual Calendar watches produced in this generation, only 378 were made in the SP (Steel/Platinum) configuration. The value appreciation of these models reflects the growing recognition of Audemars Piguet's complication timepieces from the 1990s.
Royal Oak Chronograph – Modern Evolution
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, Ref. 26331ST, represents the current generation. Introduced in 2012, it brought enlarged sub-dials for better readability and enhanced luminous material. Technically, the watch is powered by the automatic Caliber 2385 with a 40-hour power reserve. The 41mm case reflects modern proportions while maintaining the classic Royal Oak design DNA.
Royal Oak City of Sails – Limited Sailing Edition
The City of Sails, Ref. 25860IS.O.1110IS.01, was created as a tribute to the brand’s involvement in the America’s Cup. This 39mm titanium chronograph features a blue dial with yellow luminous accents. With a production limited to 300 pieces, this Audemars Piguet watch is one of the rarer Royal Oak editions and is prized by collectors for its nautical theme.
Code 11.59 – Architectural Innovation
Introduced in 2019, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection marked a bold step beyond the Royal Oak lineage. Reference 15210OR.00.A056KB.01 features an octagonal mid-case fused with a round bezel—an architectural feat that required new manufacturing techniques.
The 41mm automatic chronograph variant combines 18-carat rose gold with a deep green strap and black ceramic accents. This blend of materials underscores Audemars Piguet’s commitment to innovation, even after 150 years.
Market Trends & Value Stability
Market Trends & Value Stability
Audemars Piguet watches have established themselves as particularly value-stable luxury timepieces. The consistently limited annual production of about 40,000 watches worldwide, combined with artisanal excellence and strong design identity, contributes to ongoing value appreciation.
Royal Oak models, in particular, have shown strong growth. Vintage pieces from the 1970s and 1980s now fetch prices many times above their original retail values. Limited editions and complication models also outperform the broader market.
The Secondary Market for Audemars Piguet
The trade in pre-owned Audemars Piguet watches has become increasingly professional. Key factors when purchasing include expert authentication, complete documentation, and the timepiece’s condition. Especially for complication watches, verifying authenticity is critical.
150 Years of Tradition and Innovation
Audemars Piguet continuously proves that tradition and innovation are not mutually exclusive. These timepieces are more than just watches—they are expressions of craftsmanship and design philosophy. The 2025 anniversary year further highlights Audemars Piguet’s distinguished place in horology, making them highly desirable collector’s pieces with enduring value.